In April, a group of intrepid travelers embarked on an extraordinary journey in search of Mexico’s rebozo traditions and techniques. Of primary interest was to visit Mexico’s rebozo manufacturing centers to learn about the viability of this highly skilled craft in each community. We learned that in some cases the tradition is highly prized and thriving and that in others it is not given its due recognition and market and is thus threatened to extinction. As is the case with many other global textile traditions, and for complex reasons, the younger generations are not taking up the craft and/or the use of these exquisite garments that reflect their unique cultural heritage.

In addition to heritage, we were also interested in learning about the complex resist dye techniques used to create intricate patterns that some believe hearken back to the prehispanic era depicting the mottled pattern of snake skin of the plumed serpent Quetzalcoatl.

The rebozo is historically and presently a universal garment in women’s Mexican dress, worn by many social classes in Mexico. This ubiquitous garment has been identified as a syncretic garment, that fuses indigenous elements of the prehispanic tilmatli (cloak/cape) and the Spanish “mantilla” or shall with origins in the Orient, that came to Mexico via the Manila Galleons that hauled/plied trade between Manila and Acapulco. The addition of fringe to the basic garment shape (cape) is believed to be one of the primary embellishments from this outside influence. The ikat, dye resist traditions are believed to have entered Mesoamerica via the Andean cultures of South America. Numerous indicators in metallurgy, architecture and other reference points indicate that a South / North trade and influence was present in prehispanic Mesoamerica. This theory points to the fact that ikat technique and dress/clothing types were not just influenced from Asia and Europe, but in addition from South America. Further to this discussion is the point that it is highly unlikely that such a complex technique as ikat could have easily been adopted in Mesoamerica if SOME knowledge of this technique did not already exist. Therefore, the theory states that this technique had to be indigenous to the region in some capacity, in order for it to have been adopted/adapted in the manner in which it was. According to Virginia Davis, “It is important to note that the design of the ikat patterning of the Mexican rebozo has very special properties. The resist patterning is created by vertically in a warp-faced textile, but after dyeing, the motifs read horizontally in the finished weaving.”

While historically there have been numerous rebozo manufacturing centers in Mexico, such as in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Puebla and other regions; today, the primary rebozo manufacturing regions in Mexico are: Santa Maria del Rio, that specializes in silk ikat rebozos; in La Piedad, Michoacan, specializing in “artisela” or artificial silk ikat rebozos. In the Purepecha Plateau of Michoacan, the rebozo is worn by almost every woman of the region. Here, the rebozo is not “jaspeado” or ikat dye resisted, but is made traditionally on backstrap looms, with gorgeous stripes and colors. In Moroleon, Guanajuato, they produce high volume (treadle loom) ikat cotton rebozos that are distributed throughout Mexico. Finally, the mecca of rebozo design and production in Mexico is in Tenancingo, State of Mexico, where the ikat traditions, both traditional and innovative are produced with cotton versus the silk in Santa Maria del Rio. It has been mentioned to me that the Mexican upper social classes prefer to don the silk rebozo from Santa Maria del Rio. However, in my opinion, it is the ikat dyers of Tenancingo who deserve our attention and respect. In fact, they helped resurrect the ikat traditions in Santa Maria del Rio in the 1950’s, and they continue to develop their craft in spite of the fact that most upper class Mexican women today prefer the silk rebozo. The First Lady of Mexico is often seen in silk rebozos from Santa Maria del Rio, yet she has not (to my knowledge) embraced the rich traditions of the cotton/ikat rebozo from Tenancingo. On our recent journey, master dyer/weaver Luis Rodriguez said, “ you have no idea how important it is to me, my children and my community that you come and take interest in our traditions. Sometimes we think no one cares or is interested. When we see that you are interested in learning about how we tie our thread bundles, how we dye them, untie them and weave them to produce patterns, we are deeply honored and motivated”. All rebozo centers in Mexico deserve our respect and attention. In life, we take many things for granted, and when we don’t acknowledge and express our admiration and respect for these traditions, they may just go away, leaving us with clothing from Target, Walmart and Kohls. What a sad, depressing world this would be.

We are planning another Rebozo Traditions and Techniques textile tour in March of 2010. We look forward to sharing these rich and extraordinary traditions with the WORLD (YOU!!). 

Pictures from our trip:

http://picasaweb.google.com/tiastephanie/RebozoTour#